Wednesday, November 25, 2015

Norway by Sea - 9/24 to 10/01/2015

It had been nearly 4-decades since I’d visited Norway.  Earlier this fall, I returned to this part of Scandinavia, getting to go well beyond Oslo and Bergen. Like other destinations, Norway has changed significantly since the mid ‘70’s.  Nevertheless it continues to enthrall those who seek natural wonder, unique cultural experiences and opportunities to be physically engaged.


The centerpiece of this visit was a 7-day cruise aboard the MS Trollfjord of the Hurtigruten line. Along with 8-other American travel counselors and a line sales manager, we embarked in Bergen and sailed north along the coast crossing the Arctic Circle on the third-day.  After visiting Europe’s northernmost point, Nordkapp/North Cape, we arrived at the Barents Sea port of Kirkenes and just six-miles from the Russian frontier.  

North bound itinerary from Bergen to Kirkenes





MS Trollfjord is anchored
 to my right in distant background



Needless to say, there was nothing ordinary about this itinerary. Early on we made a passage through the wild Hjørundfjord. The route took us by majestic mountains (the SunnmØre Alps) and eventually, into a peaceful cove in front of the pastoral village of Øye.  Tendered in, we hiked up hills that overlooked the idyllic setting.  Upon return we ate lunch of (surprisingly) delicious goat stew and cow-berries with cream at the historic Hotel Union Øye. At the end of 1800s Europe’s royalty (e.g. Kaiser Wilhelm II) and its upper classes frequented the hotel which has recently been restored to its former grandeur.


Hotel Union Øye
  

Exiting the Hjørundfjord, we docked at

Ålesund where I joined several other
passengers for a climb up the famous
418-steps staircase leading to the
summit of Mount Aksla right in the
center of the city. From here, we were
rewarded with a splendid view of
Ålesund and the surrounding

mountains and islands.
Ålesund from atop Mt. Aksla



Trondheim's Nidaros Cathedral on a showery Sunday morning
Further up the coast we visited Norway’s third city, Trondheim.  Its major attraction is the Nidaros Cathedral, the largest and northernmost medieval cathedral in Scandinavia.  Its construction began in the 12th century rising up from the burial site of Norway’s patron saint, St., Olav, the Norwegian Viking King.



During the morning that we crossed the Arctic Circle, several passengers were awarded Hurtigruten’s Polarsirkel Sertificat (a.k.a. Certificate of the Arctic Circle).  



  
Neptune was overseeing in the background
to my right
!


The recognition each candidate was doused with ice water and
encouraged to down a glass of
aquavit
To insure the authenticity of the rites, King Neptune was on hand.

I concluded that aquavit is an acquired taste.

Following the Circle crossing, and, 
after docking at Bodø, several of                              

,
us suited up and boarded a rigid-inflatable boat or RIB (to my left below) for a safari 
to the near-by SaltstraumenThis stretch of water is a narrow
channel connecting two fjords. It’s
reported to experiences the 

strongest tidal current in the 
world. The special RIB watercraft
allowed us to safely enter the 
maelstroms created by the coming together of the waters of both fjords.

This is a link to a YouTube presentation that captures a RIB voyage through the Saltstraumen. Captions are in English and Russian. I regret the pop-ups and ads, but this was the best video presentation that I could find. 
  
Saltstraumen is also noted for its white-tailed or sea eagle. World-wide, Norway is home to about 20% of this species. 
In size, the sea eagle is comparable to the bald eagle.  On our RIB safari we saw three or four of these impressive birds. Unfortunately they were perched atop buoys or on crags. None was in in dramatic or an crags.  None was in dramatic flight as pictured below.
(courtesy of the Northern Norway Tourist Board) 


Late in our sailing we visited Tromsø with its impressive Arctic Cathedral. I accessed the edifice by walking across the Tromsø Bridge, a span of two-thirds of a mile that connects both parts of the city. The walk was invigorating!  On the way back, I stopped at the city’s very unique Polarmuseet (Polar Museum). This compact but cozy museum is filled with exhibits that bring to life Norway’s very prominent role in Arctic exploration.
Tromsø Cathedral (in summer!)














Tromsø Polar Museum (as it appears much of the year!)








Nordkapp - Globe Monument



The following day, we sailed into Honningsvåg, the closest port to the Nordkapp (North Cape).  The ride to the Nordkapp is along the northernmost road in the European system.  Nordkapp is at 71ᴼ 10’ and 1300-miles from the North Pole (by comparison, Point Barrow AK is at 71ᴼ 23’ and 1122 miles from the Pole).  Nordkapp -- most accessible to tourists between mid-May and late August and at increasingly limited access between late fall and most of spring -- overlooks the Arctic Ocean from a 3000 foot promontory. Its most famous symbol is the Globe Monument (pictured left).  There is an excellent visitors’ center at Nordkapp that provides a great audio-visual presentation, a peace chapel and exhibits.  We visited Nordkapp on September 30, but fierce winds and snow squalls made it feel more like January in Boston!
                               
                   

                                                            At Honningsvåg -- Trolls are everywhere in Norway!



A bit more about the Hurtigruten experience ...
Of course, the Norwegian Coastal Voyage aboard Hurtigruten’s (14-thousand ton)
MS Trollfjord was a major part of this Scandinavian itinerary.  The Trollfjord and her 11-sister ships – continually plying the waters of the Norwegian coast, visiting 32-ports in 12-days (round-trip) – serve a dual purpose.  They provide the locals with postal, small cargo and ferry services along a coast characterized by fjords and mountains on the shoreline (beautiful, but largely inaccessible except by water).  For guests, like us, the itineraries are a visually rich vehicle for immersion into Norway’s landscapes, outdoor activities, food, beverage and cultural heritage.


The range of shore excursions on Norway Coastal voyages varies depending on season. For example, in summer, mountain biking, birding, kayaking, horseback riding and midnight sun activities abound.  In winter, dog sledding, snowmobiling, wilderness camping and, weather permitting, Northern Lights viewing are options.

Hurtigrtuen accommodations are simple, clean and comfortable.  English is spoken on board (as it is just about everywhere else in Scandinavia).  Most of the food is locally provisioned, making for memorable fish and vegetable offerings.  The breads, cheeses and desserts were also super.  There is neither gambling nor organized nightlife on board.
Given the activity level of the typical Hurtigruten guest aboard Norwegian Coastal Itinerary, bed times come early, anyway.



As for Bergen and Oslo ...
Before the Trollfjord voyage, I spent a day in Bergen.  Post cruise, I had 36-hours in Norway’s capital, Oslo. Both are excellent cities for tourists.  Bergen, with its Hansaeatic vestiges is very walkable and picturesque.  Oslo, a pedestrian friendly city, has a great public transportation system and lots of things to do close-in.  



The Bergen highlight for me was a trip out to Troldhaugen, the home (on right) of, perhaps, Norway’s most famous composer, Edvard Grieg. Admission here included a lunch concert with Norwegian pianist Torleif Torgersen.

Among the Grieg artifacts

Friday, October 30, 2015

Galway City, a Halloween gem!


The celebration of Halloween is rooted in pagan and Christian Celtic practices.  With the arrival of Irish and Scots immigrants in 19th century America, Halloween traditions began to be assimilated into the American experience.  Since the early 20th century, Halloween has been observed across the USA by just about all Americans.  But, what's the status of the October vent in Celtic lands?

One notable celebration takes place in Galway, the largest city in the Province of Connaught and a key stopping point on Ireland's new road, the "Wild Atlantic Way".  Galway is also home to the internationally renowned Macnas, a producer of festivals and celebrations that bring stunning large-scale images, interactive performances and "brilliant chaos" to the streets of the world.    

In recent years, Macnas, in partnership with municipal and civic sponsors, has produced Galway's famous Halloween Parade.  This year’s parade, themed “
The Shadow Lighter” was celebrated on Saturday, October 25.  It featured ‘Danu’, Celtic Goddess of the divine and dark, brutal and beautiful, warrior and mother. Danu was joined by Macnas Mummers and Drummers, Youth Ballet West, the Macnas Brass Ensemble and over 200 performers and musicians from Galway City and County.

As a certified Ireland specialist (Tourism Ireland), I’m able to plan your visit to Ireland whether it be to Galway and Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way during fall 2016 or to any other part part of the island of Ireland in any season.  There IS something for everyone on the Emerald Isle!

Ed McCourt, CTC
Travel Collaborative
Cambridge, MA
edmccourt@travelcoll.com
781-325-2553


Want more parade background?  See this link (whether or not you speak Irish Gaelic!).






Monday, March 16, 2015

An AMA Waterway European river cruise itinerary emphasizing Jewish Heritage

AMA Waterways AMA Certo passing Bratislava Castle on the Danube 
The linked article just below is a bitter-sweet NY Times (3-13-15) account of a fascinating river cruise itinerary offered by AMA Waterways.  This river cruise line generally exceeds guest expectations and offers some of the most creative special-interest programs for individual travelers. EM
Tracing Jewish Heritage Along the Danube   By LISA SCHWARZBAUM
In Hungary, Slovakia, Austria and Germany, the river was a guide and a witness to vanished Jewish life.

Pasted at bottom is this river cruise itinerary for 2015.  Do note that the 8-day cruise may be packaged with a Prague pre-sailing land-tour option that further enhance the "heritage" experience.



Please contact me (781-325-2553 or edmccourt@travelcoll.com) for information about this cruise or other AMA Waterways programs.

Friday, March 13, 2015


2016 Red Sox Fan Cruise
Jan 9 – 16
Eastern Caribbean
(from Miami)



Cruise for 7 nights with legendary Red Sox players and WEEI announcer, Dave O'Brien, on the newest ship in the Celebrity Cruises fleet, the Celebrity Reflection®. Show your Boston Red Sox pride at exclusive events onboard with Jim Rice, Steve Lyons, Luis Tiant, Mike Timlin and Keith Foulke.
Itinerary:
Miami - San Juan, PR - Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas - St. Maarten - Miami*


Includes:
• Time with former Red Sox players at an exclusive karaoke night, pool volleyball,
  autograph/photo sessions and more**
• Free Classic Alcohol Packages
• $50 Onboard Credit, prepaid gratuities and taxes
• Exclusive gifts from Celebrity Cruises


Steve Lyons
Lyons played nine seasons in the major leagues with four different teams including four stints in Boston and is a three-time national Emmy award-winning broadcaster. Drafted in the first round by the Red Sox in 1981 out of Oregon State, he is one of only three players to play all nine positions in one game at the major league level.
Mike Timlin
Timlin was known for his 93 mph fastball. His sliders and sinkers had a downward break, inducing a significant number of ground balls. In 2004, Timlin made 76 pitching appearances, the third-most in Red Sox history and tied for fourth in American League history. Timlin has four World Series Championships, two of which were with the Boston Red Sox.
Jim Rice — National Baseball Hall of Fame
AAA's International League Rookie of the Year, MVP, and Triple Crown winner in 1974, he was brought up to the majors for the 1975 season. During his 16 year career, Rice led the AL in home runs three times, twice in RBI, twice in slugging average, and four times in total bases. He also hit at least 39 home runs in a season four times, collected eight 100-RBI seasons with 200+ hits, and has batted over .300 seven times in his career.
Luis Tiant — Boston Red Sox Hall of Fame
In July 1964, Tiant made his first Major League debut. During his time in Boston, his nickname El Tiante flourished just like his pitching. By 1975, Luis would win 18 games leading the Sox into the postseason against the World Champion Oakland Athletics. He threw a three-hitter complete game to defeat the Athletics, then faced the Cincinatti Reds in the World Series. Tiant pitched Game 4 throwing 163 pitches for the win and second complete game in the series. Although he had a no-decision in Game 6, he was still a huge contributor to the greatest game ever played.
Keith Foulke
Foulke started his career with the Giants, but was traded to the White Sox. Keith quickly made himself comfortable in the White Sox bullpen serving primarily as the set-up man. In 1999, he posted a 2.22 ERA in 105.1 innings over 67 games—which made him one of the best relief pitchers in the game. Keith signed with the Boston Red Sox as a free agent in 2004. The most memorable moment in the 2004 World Series for Red Sox Nation will always be Foulke stabbing the grounder hit his way and tossing it to first base for the final out, giving the Red Sox their first World Series victory in 86 years.
Dave O'Brien
Dave O'Brien enters his 8th season of radio broadcast for Red Sox baseball and his 24th year calling major league games. O'Brien also broadcasts for ESPN, where he has handled a variety of play-by-play roles. He has called the last several League Championship Series and World Series for MLB's International TV coverage including the Red Sox World Series victories in 2004 and 2007.
* Prices per person, based on double occupancy and include prepaid gratuities, taxes and fees, port charges, departure taxes, and any or all other applicable fees in effect at the time of sailing. Rates & Fees are subject to change without prior notice. Valid for new bookings only. ** Exclusive events on a first come, first serve basis, subject to change and may be replaced by similar events without notice. Guests must register for events at the information desk upon boarding the ship. Named talent aboard are also subject to change. *** Celebrity Cruises Classic Beverage Package includes unlimited drinks up to $6 per serving; and spirits, cocktails, and wine up to $8 per serving, all soda selections, fresh squeezed and bottled juices, premium coffees, teas and nonpremium bottled water and server gratuities (amount based on gratuity guidelines. **** OBC has no cash value, is applicable to cruise only, non transferable, not redeemable for cash, and expires 10:00 PM on the final night of the cruise. Other restrictions apply. Group Number ID: 8039843 ©2015 Celebrity Cruises Inc. Ships' registry: Malta and Ecuador. 5970 • 1/15
Space is limited. 
For booking or more information, call
Ed McCourt, CTC
The Travel Collaborative 781-325-2553
www. http://travelcollaborative.com/
625 Mt. AuburnSt., Suite 207, Cambridge, MA 02138

Thursday, March 12, 2015

Review these great opportuntities to visit Greenland!

Hurtigruten

Discover the Undiscovered - Greenland
EXPLORE THE ARCTIC ISLAND OF GREENLANDThe Arctic island of Greenland offers adventures you have never experienced before. The wilderness is amazing, the wildlife is exotic and the people who live here have interesting stories to tell. Choose from four special voyages that let you explore the best of the Arctic.
Incredible Greenland Voyages of Discovery. Now With Savings Up to $5,000pp
Glaciers and IceSpecial Photography Voyage
This Voyage brings you through Disko Bay to the less visited southern parts of Greenland. Visit traditional Inuit settlements and historic places from the Viking era, the capital of Greenland, Nuuk.Join wildlife and nature photographer Darren Perkell on this special Voyage and bring home stunning photographs of your own. Photography workshops and learning opportunities are included!

Arctic Wilderness AdventureNational Park Expedition
Enjoy rarely visited settlements with giant icebergs, fjords, wildlife and spectacular landscapes for an authentic experience of Greenland and its people. Both educational and inspiring.Join an extraordinary and exclusive expedition taking you to three Arctic Islands; Spitsbergen, Greenland and Iceland. Experience North East Greenland National Park, the largest and least visited national park in the world.



Email
E-MAIL ME:
edmccourt@travelcoll.com

Phone
CALL ME:
781-325-2553


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*From prices based on two people sharing an unspecified inside cabin on select sailings. Offer valid on new bookings only.
Offers not valid for port to port, group travel, packages sold by a tour operator. Ships registry: Norway


Hurtigruten, Inc. 320 120th Ave NE Suite 100 Bellevue, WA 98005 USA


Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Yes, Ireland IS a mecca for foodies!

You may have memories of visiting Ireland years ago, when Irish cuisine left much to be desired. Well, in the last decades things have changed quite dramatically across the island and in just about all food service settings.

I've linked this presentation from, arguably, Dublin's most outstanding hotel, The Merrion.  Look at what, Ed Cooney, the Merrion's executive chef, has in store for Saint Patrick's Day.  And, contact me for additional information about staying at The Merrion (781-325-2553/edmccout@travelcoll.com).

By the way, if you have a specific Irish eatery recommendation, please post your information as a "comment".

Thank you, and have a happly
Fhéile Pádraig!